Sunday, 11 August 2013

Auscision 73 Class: DCC modification with sound


The Auscision 73 Class was released as a DC model only. There was no provision for DCC and requires a complete rewire. Three switches located internally on the board enabled you to turn the headlights, marker lights and number board lights on/off in DC. To operate these lights in DCC the light boards require modifications because the orientations of the LEDs were not suitable for DCC operation. This meant turning some of the LEDs around and to change the wiring configuration.
The model is small and space is limited so when used in conjunction with the DCC SOLUTIONS: 2 Function Output Power Amplifier, the ESU Loksound Range of 21 Pin decoders and the ESU 21MTC Adapter Board  you will be able to reproduce prototypical features for operating the white and red markers lights and have sound. The number board lights will operate in conjunction with the headlights. The use of this configuration is preferred due to the fact should something go wrong with the decoder it can easily be unplugged and replaced.


REQUIREMENTS
ESU Loksound Select 21 MTC pin sound decoder (#73900) with the “GE Cat-44” sound file
ESU 21 MTC Adapter Board (#51967)
DCC SOLUTIONS: 2 Function Output Power Amplifier (PA73).

Contact DCC Solutions: info@dccsolutions.com.au  or www.dccsolutions.com.au
ESU 14x12mm Square 8 ohm 1 watt speaker with Integrated Sound Chamber (#50326) or speaker of your choice.
ESU 36 Gauge wire (Yellow, Blue, Green, Violet and Brown)

1 x 1KΩ size 0603 surface mount resistor or 1 x 1KΩ Carbon Film Resistor

Part 1 _Disassemble:
1. Firstly, start by removing the body from the chassis by unscrewing and removing the couplers.
2. Once the couplers have been removed you need to pull the body off the chassis. There is double sided tape holding the body to the chassis on each side. By slightly spreading the body sides to release the retaining tabs, the body will then simply lift off the chassis.
3. Squeezing the body gently will release the body retaining tabs from the walkways.


4. Remove the track pick-up wires – the double RED wires and double BLACK wires at the end of the board.(Figure 2)
5. Remove the motor wires – the single Red and single BLACK wires at the end of the board.
6. Disconnect the light board wires – the white connector plug from the board.
7. Unscrew the circuit board and remove. Keep the plastic plate and screws under the board for use later.
 

Figure 2: Inside the 73

8. Gently remove the front and rear light boards from the chassis. (Figure 3) 
9. With a sharp hobby knife separate the front black plastic covers from the light boards
10. Cut the wires at the back of the light board leaving about 20mm. 
 

Figure 3: Removing the Light Boards
 
 
Part 2_Light Board Modification:
The light board marked YJ006-02A is from the No.2 End (Rear-Long Hood) of the loco. Refer to as Board 02A
The light board marked YJ006-02B is from the No.1 End (Front-Short Hood) of the loco. Refer to as Board 02B
Board 02A:
1. Unsolder and remove the 5 wires from the board.
2. Unsolder the 2 red marker LEDs (L4, L5) and turn them around. Resolder back onto the board (Figure 4)
3. It is important when turning the LEDs around you change the original polarity.

Figure 4: Location of Red Markers

The five solder pads on the bottom of the light board are numbered 1 to 5. On each pad solder suitable lengths of coloured wires to reach from the rear light board location to the adapter board as such:

Figure 5: Showing Board 02A completed
 
Modifying Light Board 02A (Figure 5)
0 = Cut the trace on the light board between the two resistors. Use the sharp blade of a hobby knife.
1 = Blue Link Wire from 1 to 3 _for Number Boards (V+)
2 = Yellow Link Wire from 2 to 5_for Number Boards (V-)
3 = Blue Wire (V+) _ Common (+) for Headlights, White Markers, Red Markers
4 = Green Wire_ for White Markers (V-)
5 = Yellow Wire_ for Rear Headlight (V-)
6 = Violet Wire_ for Red Markers (V-)
682 RESISTOR = White Marker (-)                     472 RESISTOR = Red Marker (-)
IMPORTANT: A 1KΩ resistor is needed for the yellow headlight wire (No.5) when connecting it to the ESU 21MTC Adapter Board (#51967). No additional resistors are needed for the green and violet marker light wires.
 

Once the wiring is complete apply 12V DC (+) to the Blue wire and 12V DC (-) to the Violet wire to check you have successfully modified the red markers.
Connect 12V DC (-) to the Green wire to check the white markers.
Connect 12V DC (-) with a 1KΩ resistor to the yellow wire to check headlight and number boards.
If there is a problem with the red markers check you have correctly changed the polarity of the LEDs. Also check your soldering joints and the trace cut between the resistors.
 


Modifying Light Board 02B:
1. Unsolder and remove the 5 wires from the board.
2. Unsolder the 2 white marker LEDs (L6, L7) and turn them around. Resolder back onto       the board  (Figure 6)
3. Unsolder the headlight (L1) and turn it around. Resolder back onto the board (Figure6)
4.  It is important when turning the LEDs around you change the original polarity.
5. Turn the board over and cut the trace on the light board between the two resistors.
     (See 0 in Figure 7)
6. Once the modification is complete apply 12V DC (+) to Pad 3 and (-) to Pad 4 (Figure 6) to check you have successfully modified the white markers. Connect (-) with a 1KΩ resistor to Pad 5 to check you have successfully modified the headlight. Connect (-) to Pad 6 (Figure 5) to check the red markers. Apply 12V DC (+) to Pad 1 and (-) with a 1KΩ resistor to the Pad 2 to check the number boards. If there is a problem with the modified LEDs check you have correctly changed the polarity of the LEDs. Also check your soldering joints and the trace cut between the resistors
7. Connect the DCC SOLUTIONS: 2 Function Output Power Amplifier wires to this light board as described in the instructions supplied with the Power Amplifier.(Figure 8) The power amplifier has a built in 1KΩ resistor for the Front Headlight and Number Boards

Figure 6: Location of white markers and headlight
 
8. Once the Power Amplifier is connected, apply hot glue to the back of the board
9. Glue the black cover plates back onto the front of the boards
10. Replace the light boards back in the chassis holders.
Board 02A with the yellow wire to the No.2 End (Rear-Long Hood)
Board 02B with the white wire to the No.1 End (Front-Short Hood)
 
Figure 7:  Showing Board 02B completed                                                 Figure 8: Board 02B connected to amplifier
Part 3_Wiring the ESU 21MTC Adapter Board:
1. Use the plastic mounting plate that was under the original board and cut off the mounting lugs on both sides.

2. Cut a larger opening for the fly wheel, cut the screws shorter and screw back onto chassis. (Figure 9)

3. Locate Pad No.7 and its board trace. Carefully remove the protection layer over the trace using the tip of a sharp hobby knife.
4. Cut the trace (Figure 10) and lightly tin with solder the traces either sides of the cut. Solder a 1KΩ size 0603 surface mount resistor onto the board. (Figure 11). Alternatively, you can skip steps 3 and 4 and use a 1KΩ Carbon Film Resistor soldered to the yellow wire from light board 02A.



 

Figure 9: Mounting Board

 

  
                   Figure 10: Cut the Trace                                                                  Figure 11: Solder 1KΩ Resistor



Soldered all the wires to underneath of the adapter board


1.       Solder the 2 RED pick-up wires to pad 21

2.       Solder the 2 BLACK pick-up wires to pad 20

3.       Solder the BLACK wire from Power Amplifier  to pad 19

4.       Solder the BLACK motor wire to pad 18

5.       Solder the RED motor wire to pad 17

6.       Solder the BLUE wire from Light Board 02A and  the BLUE wire from Power Amplifier to pad 15

7.       Solder the GREEN wire from Light Board 02B Power Amplifier to pad 12

8.       Solder the VIOLET wire from Light Board 02B Power Amplifier to pad 4

9.       Solder the WHITE wire from Light Board 02B Power Amplifier to pad 8

10.   Solder the GREEN wire from Light Board 02A to pad 14

11.   Solder the VIOLET wire from Light Board 02A to pad 13

12.   Solder the YELLOW wire from Light Board 02A to pad 7

13.   Solder a length of BROWN wire to pads 9 and 10. (Speaker on cab roof)

14.   Solder the brown wires to the speaker.
 
 
Part 4_Testing and Final Assembly:
 
With the wiring now complete:

1. Install the decoder
2. Test the locomotive’s directional movement
3. Test Headlight and Marker functions. Check the decoder manual for the default function numbers for AUX 1,2,3,4.
4. Test speaker sound.
5. If a problem occurs, go back through the wiring steps and check all connections are correct.
6. If everything works, apply some epoxy glue to the underside of the adapter board and mount it onto the plastic plate.

7. Secure wires and Power Amplifier with tape to the top of the motor.

8. Install the walkways back onto the chassis.




The completed wiring modifications to the 73 Class. The locomotive is now DCC ready.

 
9. Paint the speaker enclosure white. Peel the backing off the mounting tape and attach the speaker to the cab roof.

Speaker mounted on the cab roof.
 
10. Slide the body back down over the motor and adapter board. Gently push it down until the body retaining tabs clip into the walkway plate.
11. Install the coupler boxes and screws.
 

 


Auscision 73 Class with DCC Sound

    Part 5_Programming
     
    Once you have reassembled the locomotive, place it on the track and program the decoder as such:
           i.  Output 1 (Front Headlights and Number Boards-Directional) to F0 by default.
          ii.  Output 2 (Rear Headlights and Number Boards-Directional) to F0 by default.
         iii.  Output 3 (AUX1) to F11(Rear White Markers
         iv.  Output 4 (AUX2) to F12 (Rear Red Markers)
          v.  Output 5 (AUX3) to F9 (Front White Markers)
         vi.  Output 6 (AUX4) to F10 (Front Red Markers)
     Or any function number you prefer to operate the marker lights individually.
     



    The 73 Class Locomotive is now ready for DCC operation with sound.
     
    For those who would like to convert their 73 class to DCC and feel that this conversion maybe complicated or you simply prefer someone to complete your installations contact DCC Solutions at info@dccsolutions.com.au or visit www.dccsolutions.com.au







    Auscision 73 Class DCC Mod by TESS Ver.1.2 (08/2013)

     

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