The Auscision 73 Class was released as a DC model only. There was no provision for DCC and requires a complete rewire. Three switches located internally on the board enabled you to turn the headlights, marker lights and number board lights on/off in DC. To operate these lights in DCC the light boards require modifications because the orientations of the LEDs were not suitable for DCC operation. This meant turning some of the LEDs around and to change the wiring configuration.
REQUIREMENTS
ESU Loksound Select 21 MTC pin sound decoder (#73900) with the “GE Cat-44” sound file
ESU 21 MTC Adapter Board (#51967)
DCC SOLUTIONS: 2 Function Output Power Amplifier (PA73).
Contact DCC Solutions: info@dccsolutions.com.au or www.dccsolutions.com.au
ESU 14x12mm Square 8 ohm 1 watt speaker with Integrated Sound Chamber (#50326) or speaker of your choice.
ESU 36 Gauge wire (Yellow, Blue, Green, Violet and Brown)
1 x 1KΩ size 0603 surface mount resistor or 1 x 1KΩ Carbon Film Resistor
Part 1 _Disassemble:
1. Firstly, start by removing the body from the chassis by unscrewing and removing the couplers.
2. Once the couplers have been removed you need to pull the body off the chassis. There is double sided tape holding the body to the chassis on each side. By slightly spreading the body sides to release the retaining tabs, the body will then simply lift off the chassis.
3. Squeezing the body gently will release the body retaining tabs from the walkways.
4. Remove the track pick-up wires – the double RED wires and
double BLACK wires at the end of the board.(Figure 2)
5. Remove the motor wires – the single Red and single BLACK wires
at the end of the board.
6. Disconnect the light board wires – the white connector plug
from the board.
7. Unscrew the circuit board and remove. Keep the plastic plate and screws under the board for use later.
7. Unscrew the circuit board and remove. Keep the plastic plate and screws under the board for use later.
Figure 2: Inside the 73
8. Gently remove the front and rear light boards from the chassis. (Figure 3)
9. With a sharp hobby knife separate the front black plastic
covers from the light boards
10. Cut the wires at the back of the light board leaving about 20mm.
10. Cut the wires at the back of the light board leaving about 20mm.
Figure 3: Removing the Light Boards
Part
2_Light Board Modification:
The
light board marked YJ006-02A is from
the No.2 End (Rear-Long Hood) of the loco. Refer to as Board 02A
The light
board marked YJ006-02B is from the
No.1 End (Front-Short Hood) of the loco. Refer to as Board 02BBoard 02A:
1. Unsolder and remove the 5 wires from the board.
2. Unsolder the 2 red marker LEDs (L4, L5) and turn them around. Resolder back onto the board (Figure 4)
3. It is important when turning the LEDs around you change the original polarity.
Figure 4: Location of Red Markers
The five solder pads on the bottom of the light board
are numbered 1 to 5. On each pad solder suitable lengths of coloured wires to
reach from the rear light board location to the adapter board as such:
Figure 5: Showing
Board 02A completed
Modifying
Light Board 02A (Figure 5)
0 = Cut the trace on the light board between the two
resistors. Use the sharp blade of a hobby knife.
1 = Blue Link
Wire from 1 to 3 _for Number Boards (V+)
2 = Yellow
Link Wire from 2 to 5_for Number Boards (V-)
3 = Blue
Wire (V+) _ Common (+) for Headlights, White Markers, Red Markers
4 = Green
Wire_ for White Markers (V-)
5 = Yellow
Wire_ for Rear Headlight (V-)
6 = Violet
Wire_ for Red Markers (V-)
682 RESISTOR = White Marker (-) 472 RESISTOR = Red Marker (-)
IMPORTANT:
A
1KΩ resistor is needed for the yellow headlight wire (No.5) when connecting it
to the ESU 21MTC Adapter Board (#51967). No additional resistors are needed for
the green and violet marker light wires.
Once the wiring is complete apply 12V DC (+) to the
Blue wire and 12V DC (-) to the Violet wire to check you have successfully
modified the red markers.
Connect 12V DC (-) to the Green wire to check the white
markers.
Connect 12V DC (-) with a 1KΩ resistor to the yellow
wire to check headlight and number boards.
If there is a problem with the red markers check you
have correctly changed the polarity of the LEDs. Also check your soldering
joints and the trace cut between the resistors.
Modifying Light Board 02B:
1. Unsolder and
remove the 5 wires from the board.
2.
Unsolder the 2
white marker LEDs (L6, L7) and turn them around. Resolder back onto the
board (Figure 6)
3. Unsolder the
headlight (L1) and turn it around. Resolder back onto the board (Figure6)
4.
It is important when turning
the LEDs around you change the original polarity.
5.
Turn the board
over and cut the trace on the light board between the two resistors.
(See 0 in
Figure 7)
6. Once the
modification is complete apply 12V DC (+) to Pad 3 and (-) to Pad 4 (Figure 6)
to check you have successfully modified the white markers. Connect (-) with a
1KΩ resistor to Pad 5 to check you have successfully modified the headlight.
Connect (-) to Pad 6 (Figure 5) to check the red markers. Apply 12V DC (+) to
Pad 1 and (-) with a 1KΩ resistor to the Pad 2 to check the number boards. If
there is a problem with the modified LEDs check you have correctly changed the
polarity of the LEDs. Also check your soldering joints and the trace cut
between the resistors
7. Connect the DCC
SOLUTIONS: 2 Function Output Power Amplifier wires to this light board as
described in the instructions supplied with the Power Amplifier.(Figure 8) The
power amplifier has a built in 1KΩ resistor for the Front Headlight and Number
Boards
Figure 6: Location of white markers and headlight
8.
Once the Power Amplifier
is connected, apply hot glue to the back of the board
9.
Glue the black
cover plates back onto the front of the boards
10. Replace the light
boards back in the chassis holders.
Board 02A
with the yellow wire to the No.2 End (Rear-Long Hood)
Board 02B with
the white wire to the No.1 End (Front-Short Hood)
Figure 7: Showing Board 02B completed Figure 8: Board 02B connected to amplifier
Part 3_Wiring the ESU 21MTC
Adapter Board:
1. Use the plastic mounting plate that was under the original board
and cut off the mounting lugs on both sides.
2. Cut a larger opening for the fly wheel, cut the screws shorter and
screw back onto chassis. (Figure 9)
3. Locate Pad No.7
and its board trace. Carefully remove the protection layer over the trace using
the tip of a sharp hobby knife.
4. Cut the trace
(Figure 10) and lightly tin with solder the traces either sides of the cut. Solder
a 1KΩ size 0603 surface mount resistor onto the board. (Figure 11).
Alternatively, you can skip steps 3 and 4 and use a 1KΩ Carbon Film Resistor soldered
to the yellow wire from light board 02A.
Figure 9: Mounting Board
Soldered all the wires to underneath of
the adapter board
1.
Solder the 2 RED
pick-up wires to pad 21
2.
Solder the 2
BLACK pick-up wires to pad 20
3.
Solder the BLACK
wire from Power Amplifier to pad 19
4.
Solder the BLACK
motor wire to pad 18
5.
Solder the RED
motor wire to pad 17
6.
Solder the BLUE
wire from Light Board 02A and the BLUE
wire from Power Amplifier to pad 15
7.
Solder the GREEN
wire from Light Board 02B Power Amplifier to pad 12
8.
Solder the VIOLET
wire from Light Board 02B Power Amplifier to pad 4
9.
Solder the WHITE
wire from Light Board 02B Power Amplifier to pad 8
10.
Solder the GREEN
wire from Light Board 02A to pad 14
11.
Solder the VIOLET
wire from Light Board 02A to pad 13
12.
Solder the YELLOW
wire from Light Board 02A to pad 7
13.
Solder a length
of BROWN wire to pads 9 and 10. (Speaker on cab roof)
14.
Solder the brown
wires to the speaker.
Part 4_Testing and Final
Assembly:
With the wiring now complete:
1. Install the
decoder
2. Test the
locomotive’s directional movement
3. Test Headlight
and Marker functions. Check the decoder manual for the default function numbers
for AUX 1,2,3,4.
4. Test speaker
sound.
5.
If a problem
occurs, go back through the wiring steps and check all connections are correct.
6. If everything
works, apply some epoxy glue to the underside of the adapter board and mount it
onto the plastic plate.
7. Secure wires and
Power Amplifier with tape to the top of the motor.
8. Install the
walkways back onto the chassis.
The completed wiring modifications to the 73 Class. The locomotive is now DCC ready.
9. Paint the speaker
enclosure white. Peel the backing off the mounting tape and attach the speaker
to the cab roof.
Speaker mounted on the cab roof.
10. Slide the body back down over the motor and adapter board. Gently push it down until the body retaining tabs clip into the walkway plate.
11. Install the coupler boxes and screws.
Auscision 73 Class with DCC Sound
- Part 5_Programming
Once you have reassembled the locomotive, place it on
the track and program the decoder as such:
i.
Output 1 (Front
Headlights and Number Boards-Directional) to F0 by default.
ii. Output 2 (Rear
Headlights and Number Boards-Directional) to F0 by default.
iii. Output 3 (AUX1)
to F11(Rear White Markers
iv.
Output 4 (AUX2)
to F12 (Rear Red Markers)
v.
Output 5 (AUX3)
to F9 (Front White Markers)
vi.
Output 6 (AUX4)
to F10 (Front Red Markers)
Or any function number you prefer
to operate the marker lights individually.
The 73 Class Locomotive is now ready for DCC operation with sound.
For those who would like to convert their 73 class to DCC and feel that this conversion maybe complicated or you simply prefer someone to complete your installations contact DCC Solutions at info@dccsolutions.com.au or visit www.dccsolutions.com.au
Auscision 73 Class DCC Mod by TESS Ver.1.2 (08/2013)
Auscision 73 Class DCC Mod by TESS Ver.1.2 (08/2013)
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