Trainorama GM Class: DCC modification with sound

The Trainorama GM Class was released DCC and Sound ready. It includes the 8 Pin socket for easily fitting a DCC decoder and two 8 Ohm speakers installed.  The directional headlights, marker lights and number boards (front only) can be turned on/off using switches underneath near the fuel tank in DC. The directional rear light also has an on/off switch. When operated in DCC the lights can be operated using the Headlight Function button on your throttle. However, the rear light does not light up correctly in DCC. The bulb seems to be the problem and can easily be replaced with a Miniatronics 1.5 volt Incandescent lamp (P/N 475-1800110)

IMPORTANT: The modification requires soldering onto the circuit board components. Any modifications will void your warranty and all responsibility lies with the person making these modifications.

MODIFICATION FEATURES

Replacing the rear light with an LED

Separating the front markers and number boards from the headlight and operating them on AUX1.
Optional: Connecting the rear light to AUX2 for on/off operation rather than directional.     See Part 4 – Step 5
Installation of a DCC Sound Decoder. For better quality sound you need to install speaker sound enclosures to eliminate the sound waves produced from the back of the speaker, mixing with the sound waves produced from the front of the speaker. Avoiding this will produce sound that has less volume, lower bass and will sound “tinny”. The sound difference is remarkable.

REQUIREMENTS

ESU Loksound Select or V4.0 with 8 pin wire harness sound decoder with the “EMD 16-567” sound file.

2 x 2 Pin Speaker Adapters
1 x Custom Sound Enclosures
1 x Warm White 3mm LED
Carbon Film Resistor  – 1 x 2.7KΩ and 1 x 3.9KΩ
Black Heat Sink Tubing – 2 x 7.5mm length @1.5mm, 1 x 7.5mm length @3.0mm, 1 x 24mm length @3.0mm
Black Paint
36 Gauge wire (Yellow, Blue, Green, and White)

Part 1 _Disassemble:

1.    Firstly, start by removing the body from the chassis. Turn the locomotive upside down and gently spread the body sides slightly to release the 4 retaining tabs, lifting the body off the chassis working from the back to the front of the locomotive.
 

2.   If you plan to modify the lights complete the parts of this installation in the following order – Part 2, Part 4, Part 5 then Part 3.

Part 2_Installing the Speaker Enclosures.

1.   Locate and remove the 4 screws from the front speaker harness and remove the harness and keep the screws (Figure 1). There is no need to remove any wires.

 

                                                                            Figure 1: Remove Speaker Harness.

                                                                            Figure 2: Installed Speaker Enclosure

 

 

 

2.   Place the custom speaker enclosure over the speaker with the speaker wires seated in the slot of the enclosure.

3.   Align the screw holes of the enclosure with holes in the chassis and fit the 4 screws back you previously removed.(Figure 2)

4.   Normally you would repeat this same procedure for the 2^ndspeaker. However, due to height restrictions within the body the decoder will have to be placed over the rear speaker. Not ideal, but when covered with tape it creates a sort of speaker enclosure.                                                           

 

Part 3_Installing the Sound Decoder

1.   Remove the 8 pin DC plug from the 12 pin socket. Pins 1 to 8 are for the decoder and pins 9 to 12 are for the two speakers already installed in the locomotive

2.   Insert the 8 pin plug on the decoder into the 8 Pin socket on the board aligning Pin 1 (P1). Note: Pin 1 is the Orange wire on the plug. (Figure 3)

3.   Insert 1 of the 2 Pin Speaker Adapters into the speaker sockets joining P9/P11 together and the other joining P10/P12 together.

Important: Make sure the adapter is inserted correctly as you need to join pins P9 and P11 together also P10 and P12 together. Installed incorrectly may damage the decoder and speakers.

4.   Solder the 2 brown speaker wires from the decoder onto the speaker adapter. (Fig. 3)

5.   Do not change the “original” speaker wiring configuration in order to keep the speaker polarity correct for a “parallel” configuration.

6.   Secure the decoder with tape over the rear the speaker.(Figure 4)

7.   Refit the body back onto the chassis. Place the locomotive on the track ready for programming.

8.   Program the locomotive address and make any necessary changes to suit your own personal requirements. E.g. Horn Type, Sound Volumes, etc.

 

                                            Figure 3: Insert 8 Pin Plug, Speaker Plugs and Wires

 

Figure 4: Secure the decoder with tape over the rear speaker

 

Part 4_Replacing the Rear Light

 

1.   Remove the screws holding the board to the chassis.

2.   Locate the pads marked LED-1, remove the retaining clips and the black wires. One wire leads to the incandescent bulb the other to the on/off switch. Cut the black wire to the switch and the wire returning from the switch to the bulb. Remove the bulb.

3.   Remove the retaining clip to the (M-) pad and remove the wire. This will help to turn the board over to work on the underside.

4.   Solder a length of BLUE wire to pin 7 and a length of YELLOW to pin 2 long enough to reach the rear light. (Figure 5)

5.   Alternate Method: Instead of soldering the YELLOW wire to pin 2 on the 8 pin socket in Part 4 - Step 4, join it to the PURPLE wire from the decoder. The rear light will now operate on to AUX2 for on/off operation rather than directional

6.   If you plan to modify the front board, solder a length of GREEN wire to pin 3 long enough to reach the back of the front cab. (Figure 5)

7.   Turn the board back over. Re-install the black motor wire back to (M-), fit the retaining clip and screw the board back to the chassis. Make sure the GREEN wire goes to the front behind the cab and the BLUE and YELLOW wires go to the rear light.

8.   Solder a 3.9KΩ resistor to the end of the YELLOW wire in series with the Cathode (-) lead of the LED.(Figure 6)

9.   Solder the BLUE wire to the Anode (+) lead of the LED.(Figure 6)

10. Slip over the LED/Resistor some Black Heat Sink Tubing 24mm in length @3.0mm

11.  Place the LED in the Chassis holder and secure with tape.(Figure 7)

12. Apply some black paint inside the black light blocking housing on the roof at the rear of the body to prevent light transfer through the roof. (Figure 7.1)

 

          Figure 5: Solder wires to the base of the 8 Pin Socket.

 

  Figure 6: Rear LED Light Wiring        

 

   Figure 7: Secure Rear Light

 

Figure 7.1: Light Block Out on the Roof 

 

Part 5_Seperating the Front Headlight and Markers

1.  Remove the front light board from the chassis.

2.  Front 1 = Cut the trace with a sharp hobby knife.(Figure 8)

3.  Front 2 = Solder 2 lengths of GREEN wire to pads marked D1 and D4 long enough to reach the front of the main circuit board. (Figure 8)

4.  Rear 3 = Cut the trace with a sharp hobby knife. It’s a large trace so make sure it’s cut right through.(Figure 9)

5.  Rear 4 = Solder a length of LIGHT BLUE wire long enough to reach the LED-2 pad on the main circuit board.(Figure 9)

6.  Rear 5 =  Solder a length of DARK BLUE wire long enough to reach the Big Blue Resistor (R1) on the main circuit board.(Figure 9)

7.   Rear 6 = Solder a length of WHITE wire long enough to reach the LED-2 pad on the main circuit board.(Figure 9)

 

                 Figure 8: Front Light Board Modifications (Front)                 

 

 

Figure 9: Front Light Board Modifications (Rear)

                                  

8.  Glue a length of black heat sink tubing 7.5mm @1.5mm over both marker lights (Figure 10)

9.  Paint the joint at the light board with some black paint.

    10.  Slip over the headlight LED a length of black heat sink tubing 7.5mm @3.0(Fig.10)     

     11. Place the light board back in the chassis holder and run the wires under the cab floor and up behind the crew seats. Paint the section of wire seen behind the crew seats with some black paint. (Figure 10)

 

Figure 10: Light Block Out and Wire Location

 

12. Connect the LIGHT BLUE wire from the front light board to the pad marked LED-2 on the main board as shown in Figure 11.

13. Connect the WHITE wire from the front light board to the pad marked LED-2 on the main board as shown in Figure 11.

14. Join the 2 GREEN wires from the front light board together. Slide a length of heat sink tubing over these wires then solder a 2.7KΩ resistor to the end of the 2 GREEN wires then is series with the other GREEN wire you previously soldered to pin 3 in Part 4 - Step 5.

15. Slide the heat sink tubing over the resistor and insulate. (Figure 11)

16. Solder the DARK BLUE wire to lead of the BIG BLUE RESISTOR marked R1 near the Motor Tab marked (M-). (Figure 11)

17.  Cut the trace from pin 2, as shown near the red arrow, with a sharp hobby knife. (Figure 11)

18. The lighting modifications are now complete. The Front and Read Headlights will operate directional on Fn(0). The Front Marker Lights will operate on the function key assigned to AUX1 on your decoder.

 

 

Figure 11: Front Light Board wire connections to the mainboard

 

 

 Figure 12: The completed sound Installation with lighting modifications

 

 

The GM Class Locomotive is now ready for DCC operation with sound.

 

 

 For those who would like to modify their GM class and feel that this conversion maybe complicated or you simply prefer someone to complete your installations contact info@dccsolutions.com.au or visit www.dccsolutions.com.au

 

 

 

 

 

Coming Soon: What's on the workbench

Auscision AN Class

I have completed my DCC sound installation to the new 21 pin ready Auscision AN Class.
Once again I have split up the lighting to reproduced some prototypical features for operating headlights, foglights  and the white and red markers lights. Front Fog Lights, Front White Markers, Front Red Markers, Rear Red Markers can be assigned to 4 individual function keys of your choice. Headlights and Rear White Markers are directionally controlled.           

                                                    Auscision AN Class lighting modification 
Trainorama GM Class
I have completed my DCC sound installation to the new 8 pin ready Traino GM Class. A few issues have been discovered when converting to DCC with the rear light. It took me a while to resolve it but I have a solution.

Inside the GM before the install

 

 

Southern Rail 2 Car Xplorer/Endeavour Set: DCC modification

Work continues on this modification. I have modified the light boards and now working on the wiring between the carriages. Too many new releases to work on and this one seems to get pushed back. Work will resume.

   


Update 30 October:
I have completed this modification.

I now have the following setup:
Headlight button forward = Front white markers, front white ditch light, rear red markers.

Headlight button reverse = Rear white markers, rear white ditch lights, front red markers.

F1 = Front Headlight

F2 = Rear Headlight

F3 = Interior Lights.

Work continues to separate the ditch lights

   

On Track Models 82 Class: DCC modification with sound

The On Track Models 82 Class was released DCC ready and includes the 21 Pin MTC socket for easily fitting a DCC decoder. When operating in DCC with the original factory wiring the marker lights and foglights are controlled by the headlight function button and are directional. The front headlight and number boards are controlled  F2 (AUX2) and the rear headlight and number boards are controlled F1 (AUX1). The locomotive will run in the wrong direction in DCC and can be fixed by changing CV 29 or swapping the motor wires on the locomotive’s board.

 

MODIFICATION FEATURES

The model has plenty of space inside so when used in conjunction with the DCC SOLUTIONS: 2 Function Output Power Amplifier to add 2 extra functions, the ESU Loksound Range of 21 Pin decoders and by making simple wiring alterations to the manufacturer’s circuit board you will be able to operate 1) Headlights and Number Boards directionally 2) Front and rear White Markers and Foglights with 2 function keys 3) Front and rear Red Markers Lights with 2  function keys.  Total 6 function outputs.

Add a speaker for sound.

Most 82's ran with just the white markers and foglights on during the day, so this modification allows for that setup.

Time Required: 50-60 Minutes.

 

IMPORTANT: The modification requires soldering onto the circuit board components. Any modifications will void your warranty and all responsibility lies with the person making these modifications

 

REQUIREMENTS

ESU Loksound Select 21 MTC pin sound decoder (#73900) with the “EMD 12-710G3A” sound file

DCC SOLUTIONS: 2 Function Output Power Amplifier (PA82)

Contact DCC Solutions: info@dccsolutions.com.au or www.dccsolutions.com.au  for more information about the power amplifier.

MRC 16x35mm Rectangle 8 ohm 1 watt speaker with Integrated Sound Chamber speaker (0001513) or a speaker of your choice.

ESU 36 Gauge wire (Orange and Grey)

 

Part 1 _Disassemble:

Firstly, start by removing the body from the chassis. Turn the locomotive upside down and gently remove the fuel tank. Remove the Philip Head screw, with the other screw located near the back corner of the front bogie. Carefully lift up the body from the centre

 

 

Figure 1: 82 Class body removed from the chassis.

 

Part 2_Board Modification and Wiring

1.   Next remove the 21 pin DC plug.

2.  Locate the motor suppression components (Figure 2), remove them and solder some orange and grey link wires. (Figure 3)

3.  The locomotive travels in the wrong direction in DCC. Remove the retainer clips to the ORANGE and GREY motor wires and swap them over. Refit the retainer clips. (Figure 3)

                                                                                                      Figure 2: Suppression components

                                                                                   Figure 3: Install the link wires and swap the motor wires

 

4.   Rear Red Markers (No.2 End) remove the retainer clip and the YELLOW wire from the pad. (Figure 4) Place some heat sink tubing over the wire and solder to the SHORT YELLOW wire on the Power Amplifier (Figure 5).Insulate the joint with the heat sink tubing.

5.   Rear Headlight (No.2 End) remove the retainer clips for the GREEN wire (Headlight) and attach the wire to the pad you just previously removed the YELLOW wire from in step 4. Refit the retainer clip. (Figure 5)

6.   Rear White Markers and Foglights (No.2 End) remove the retainer clips for the two WHITE wires and attach these wires to the pad in which you previously removed the GREEN wire in step 5 (Figure 5). Refit the retainer clip.

7.   Front Red Markers (No.1 End) remove the retainer clip and the YELLOW wire from the pad. (Figure 4) Place some heat sink tubing over the wire and solder to the LONG YELLOW wire on the Power Amplifier (Figure 5). Insulate the joint with the heat sink tubing.

8.   Front Headlight (No.1 End) remove the retainer clips for the GREEN wire (Headlight) and attach the wire to the pad you just previously removed the YELLOW wire from in step 7. Refit the retainer clip. (Figure 5)

9.   Front White Markers and Foglights (No.1 End) remove the retainer clips for the two WHITE wires and attach these wires to the pad in which you previously removed the GREEN wire in step 8 (Figure 5). Refit the retainer clip.

10.  Solder the VIOLET wire from the Power Amplifier to the base of pin 4 on the 21 Pin Socket.  (Figure 5)

11.  Solder the GREEN wire from the Power Amplifier to the base of pin 13 on the 21 Pin Socket. (Figure 5)

12.  Solder the BLACK wire from the Power Amplifier to the base of pin 20 on the 21 Pin Socket. (Figure 5)

13.  Place the Power Amplifier as shown in Figure 5 and secure with tape.

14.  Take the MRC speaker and cut the connector off the end of the wires. Remove some insulation by stripping the ends of the wires.

15.  Remove the 2 retainer clips off the speaker pads on the board at the rear (No.2 End) of the locomotive. (Figure 5)

16.  Insert the BLACK and RED speakers into the holes of the pad and refit the retainer clips.

17.  Apply some glue to the metal chassis and attach the speaker. (Figure 6)

 

                                                                         Figure 4: The Original Factory Wiring Configuration

Figure 5: Power Amplifier Wiring Configuration

Figure 6: Speaker Installation

 

 

18. Install the ESU Loksound decoder by aligning the pins with the decoder and gently push down. IMPORTANT: PIN 11 IS THE INDEX PIN

19. Refit the body back onto the chassis. Place the locomotive on the track ready for programming.

20. Program AUX2 (Front White Markers/Foglights) to F9, AUX4 (Rear Red Markers) to F10, AUX1 (Rear White Markers/Foglights) to F11 and AUX3 (Front Red Markers) to F12 function or any function keys of your choice.

 

 

  Figure 7: The Completed Power Amplifier Installation ready for the decoder

 The 82 Class Locomotive is now ready for DCC operation with sound.

 

 

I completed this modification some time ago and since then I have done more modifications to the 82 class.

Option 2: Individual Function Control of 1) Headlight/Foglights 2) White Markers

                   3) Red Markers

Option 3: Individual Function Control of 1) Headlights 2) White Markers

                   3) Foglights. No Red Marker Control for multiply locomotive consist.

Option 3: Individual Function Control of 1) Headlights 2) White Markers/Red Markers

                  3) Foglights

 

 

Or my ultimate modification with 12 function outputs allowing for complete individual control of front and rear headlights, front and rear white marker lights, front and rear red marker lights, front and rear foglights and adding cab lights and crew for the 82 Class.

 

F0 = Directional Front/Rear Headlights

              F9 = Front White Markers

F10 = Front Foglights

F11 = Front Number Boards

F12 = Front Red Markers

F13 = Front Cab Light

F14 = Rear White Markers

F15 = Rear Foglights

F16 = Rear Number Boards

F17 = Rear Red Markers

F18 = Rear Cab Light

 

 (Requires light board modifications, an additional function board, LokSound V4.0 Decoder)

 

 

 For those who would like to modify their 82 class to DCC  with prototypical lighting and feel that this conversion maybe complicated or you simply prefer someone to complete your installations contact info@dccsolutions.com.au or visit www.dccsolutions.com.au