The Auscision 422: Modification of markers lights

The release of the Auscision 422 back in February included the new 21 pin MTC socket for the quick installation of a DCC decoder. It was delivered with working headlights and red and white marker lights however they all worked together as one function in DCC operation. You had the option to turn them on/off with switches provided under the fuel tank in DC.

With Auscision decision to include a new 21 pin MTC socket for easily fitting a DCC decoder it lacked the full advantage of the new socket’s offering of 6 function outputs. The headlights and markers are wired together and operate as one function using only the Headlight and Rearlight outputs 1 and 2. Output 3(AUX 1) and Output 4(AUX2) were supplied as 2 solder pads on the circuit board labelled AX1 and AX2. Output 5(AUX3) and output 6(AUX4) are not wired for use. If they were added to the board as additional solder pads it would have made separating the markers lights a little easier.

I plan to show you 3 options available for separating the marker lights.

1.  Simply separating the marker lights from the headlights that will allow you to turn the front and rear marker lights on/off separately from the headlights using your DCC system and 2 function keys.                                                            

Application: DCC Sound/Non-Sound.             Level: Easy            Time: Approx. 20-30 Mins

Requirements: Soldering skills of relocating some wires around the existing circuit board.

 

2.  Separating the marker lights from the headlights that will allow you to turn all the marker lights on/off individually from the headlights using your DCC system and 4 function  keys.                                                                
Application: DCC Non-Sound            Level: Intermediate            Time: Approx. 30-45 Mins
Requirements:  Soldering skills of relocating  some wires around the existing circuit board and adding extra wires.
 
3. Separating the marker lights from the headlights that will allow you to turn all the marker lights on/off individually from the headlights using your DCC system and 4 function keys.                                                              
Application:  DCC Sound                  Level: Intermediate                   Time: Approx. 45-60 Mins
Requirements: Soldering skills of relocating some wires around the existing circuit board and installing a 2 function power amplifier.

IMPORTANT: The following modifications require either just soldering on the circuit board or soldering SMD components.  Any modifications will void your warranty and all responsibility lies with the person making these modifications.

1.  Firstly, start by removing the body from the chassis. This is simply done by spreading the body sides slightly to release the 4 retaining tabs. The body will then simply lift off and then set it aside.
2.  Next remove the 21 pin DC plug or your already installed decoder.
3.  Locate the 2 solder pads marked AUX1 and AUX2. They will become visible when the 21 pin DC plug was removed, near the point of the white arrow.

Remove the 21 pin DC plug and locate AX1 and AX2 solder pads near the point of the white arrow.

Option 1: DCC SOUND AND NON SOUND MODIFICATION

Requirements:

ESU Loksound Select or V4 21 pin Decoder for sound

ESU Lokpilot V4 21 pin or TCS EU621 decoder for non-sound

36 Gauge Wire (Brown, Black)
 
Procedure:
1.   Front Markers (No.1 End) remove brown wire from RWK. Red Marker
2.   Rear Markers (No.2 End) remove black wire from FRK. White Marker
3.   Add a length of wire to black No.2 End wire. Insulate joint and then join
      the above wires together and solder to AX2
4.   Front Markers (No.1 End) remove black wire from RRK. White Marker
5.   Rear Markers (No.2 End) remove brown wire from FWK. Red Marker
6.   Add a length of wire to brown No.2 End wire. Insulate joint and then join
      the above wires together and solder to AX1
7.   The wires attached to RWA and FWA are the marker light common (+)
8.   Install your decoder
9.   Program AX1 to F5 and AX2 to F6 function keys or any function
       number of your choice.
10. The markers now can be switched on/off separate from the head lights.

Showing the required wire connections to separate the marker lights from the headlights.

 

 

Option 2: DCC NON SOUND MODIFICATION

 

Requirements:

I recommend the TCS EU621 decoder for non-sound because it has 6 physical function outputs. LokSound decoders with 21MTC interface have 4 physical outputs and two additional logic outputs, namely AUX3 and AUX4. Since they are pure logic outputs it is not possible to connect any external loads directly. External power amplifiers are required and this increases the level of difficultly of the installation. (See Option 3)

36 Gauge Wire (I used Green, Violet)

 

Procedure:

1.    Front Markers (No.1 End) remove black wire from RRK and solder to

       AX1 pad. White Marker

2.    Front Markers (No.1 End) remove brown wire from RWK and solder to

       AX2 pad. Red Marker

3.   Rear Markers (No.2 End) remove black wire from FRK. White Marker

4.   Add a length of green wire to the black No.2 End wire. Insulate joint

       and then solder it to the base of pin 13.

5.    Rear Markers (No.2 End) remove brown wire from FWK. Red Marker

6.   Add a length of violet wire to the brown No.2 End wire. Insulate joint

       and then solder it to the base of pin 4.

7.   The wires attached to RWA and FWA are the marker light common (+)

8.   Install your TCS EU621 decoder.

9.   Program AUX1 to F4, AUX2 to F5, AUX3 to F6 and AUX4 to F7 function

      or any function number of your choice.

10. The markers now can be switched on/off individually.

 

   The required wiring to individually separate the 4 marker lights.

Note: Ignore the black wire solder to pin 20. This is used in Option 3.

This is not required in Option 2 unless you are using an ESU Loksound Decoder.

 

Option 3: DCC SOUND MODIFICATION

 

The ESU Loksound Range of 21 Pin decoders, such as the Loksound Select, LokSound V4.0 or LokPilot V4.0, only have 4 function outputs that are amplified to be able to drive loads directly such as LED lighting. These decoders also have two additional logical outputs which are not amplified but can be amplified via the use of the DCC Solutions Power Amplifier.

Requirements:

ESU Loksound Select or V4 21 Pin Decoder for sound

DCC SOLUTIONS: 2 Function Output Power Amplifier (PA73)
Contact DCC Solutions at info@dccsolutions.com.au or www.dccsolutions.com.au for more information
 Heat Sink Tubing

Procedure:
 

1.     Front White Markers (No.1 End) remove black wire from RRK and solder to     

        AX1 pad.

2.    Front Red Markers (No.1 End) remove brown wire from RWK and solder to

        AX2 pad.

3.     Rear White Markers (No.2 End) remove the BLACK wire from the pad marked FRK.         Place the heat sink tubing over the wire and solder to the SHORT BLACK wire on the        Power Amplifier. Insulate the joint with the heat sink tubing.

4.     Rear Red Markers (No.2 End) remove BROWN wire from the pad marked FWK.           Place the heat sink tubing over the wire and solder to the SHORT BROWN wire on              the Power Amplifier. Insulate the joint with the heat sink tubing.

5.     Solder the VIOLET wire from the Power Amplifier to the base of pin 4 on the 21 Pin          Socket.  (Figure 3)

6.     Solder the GREEN wire from the Power Amplifier to the base of pin 13 on the 21         Pin Socket. (Figure 3)

7.      Solder the BLACK wire from the Power Amplifier to the base of pin 20 on the 21            Pin Socket. (Figure 3)

8.      Install your ESU Loksound decoder.
 9.     Program AUX1 to F4, AUX2 to F5, AUX3 to F6 and AUX4 to F7 function

         or any function number of your choice.
10.   The markers now can be switched on/off individually.

                                                        Figure 1: 21 Pin Socket and AX1, AX2 Locations

                                                                                                    Figure 2: Power Amplifier Wiring Diagram

                                                                                           Figure 3: The Completed Power Amplifier Installation

 

 

AUSCISION 422 WIRING GUIDE

 

This table shows the configuration of Pad/Pin numbers used on the supplied OEM Circuit Board of your Auscision 422 Class Locomotive. It also shows the modified wiring used to separate the marker lights that will allow you to use your DCC system to control the marker lights individually. An additional simple modification is required to be able to use AUX 3 and AUX 4 on the ESU LokSound 21 MTC Decoders.(*)

 

 

 

The 21 Pin MTC Interface - Pin configurations and descriptions


For those who would like to convert their 422 class and feel that this conversion maybe complicated or you simply prefer someone to complete your installations, contact DCC Solutions at info@dccsolutions.com.au or visit www.dccsolutions.com.au





 

Auscision 422 Class Light Mod by TESS Ver.1.3 (06/2013)

Powerline 48 Class DCC Sound Installation

 

For those of you that gave up the wait for the Trainorama 48's and purchased the Powerline 48 Class model and were thinking of adding sound, I thought I might share with you my sound installation. I purchased this model back in May 2012 and lets say this model had some issues. A very basic "bonus" decoder that was manual switchable for DC/DCC, bright cab lights, a loud and fast spinning fan, crew painted completely green, the lack of blackened wheels and most of all a body that would not separate from the chassis without damage.

The Powerline 48 is supplied with a DCC decoder and an on board DCC/DC switch set to DC. To operate it on DCC the 48's body has to be removed and the switch changed to DCC. The decoder works ok but is very basis and it is recommended to be replaced.

I decided to open up the loco, switch it to DCC and at the time discovered by cutting the cab light and fan wires I was able to solder them onto F2 and F3 pads on the original decoder. Now I could turn on/off using the function keys the cab light and fan until I could get my hands on DCC Sound.

Well about 4 weeks later I got my sound decoder. Many 48 Class owners were not happy the cab light and fan so disconnected them. But I wanted to keep them but not in their original state.

Problem: Where do I put a speaker?  Most removed the fan motor to make room for the speaker

Solution: I completely stripped down the 48, removed everything and in my case decided an almost complete rewire will be down. (I only used the existing lighting wire as I thought it was all too hard to remove them from the front/rear light boards) Using the ESU Loksound Alco 251 Select with the QSI Micro Oval Speaker and enclosure (Thanks to Gary from MRRC). I was surprised by the sound from a small speaker. I chose the Select Decoder instead of the Direct Decoder because when the original decoder is removed (which is the same size as the Direct) there is space in front of the fan motor that has a smaller PCB for the cab light and fan. Removing this board gave me the space I need for the speaker.

Body Removal:

1. The body was well published to be a "tight fit" and many owners damaged their models.
2. Remove both coupler boxes (2 Screws), (4) body screws and gently remove the buffers and tiny springs from both ends.
3. Hold the chassis, gently pull the body away from the chassis evenly. A small hobby knife or small flat blade screw driver will probably be needed to help leaver off the body. Be very careful as many parts will fall off from everywhere if care is not taken.

Installation:

1. Unclip the existing decoder from the mounting bracket. Cut the wires from the decoder and remove (Take a note of the wiring). Also remove the decoder mounting bracket.
2. The wires are  (4) Pick up wires : Front Right Hand = Black.  Rear Right/Hand = Red.  Front Left/Hand = Red.  Rear Left/Hand = Black

The wires are (6) Front/Rear lights. This is the order they appear looking from the top of the loco. Hope it makes sense.

 

                                     (RL= Rear Light)                   (FL)= Front Light 

                       (Front Of Loco)                                                                                               (Rear Of Loco)   

                         Red Marker=Black (RL)                    Common=Red (V+)

                                         Headlight=Black (FL)                     Headlight=Black (RL)

                                            Common=Red (V+)                        Red Marker=Red (FL)

 

4. Remove the small PCB housed in the chassis under the original decoder and cut the wires for the cab light and fan (It is directly powered from the track pick ups)

 

   5. I removed the motor, bogies, fan and rewired them. This step is optional.

 



     

Disassemble 48 Class

 

 

6. The small PCB was held in place by (4) slots on the metal body. File them down not completely just enough to hold the speaker enclosure in tight with no glue.

File Chassis for Speaker

 

 

 

7. Refit the motor, bogies, and fan. This step is optional.

 

8. I assembled speaker/enclosure/wires and push the enclosure into my new speaker location. Speaker facing downward.

 

 

Insert speaker into chassis

 

 

9. Connect the track pick up (red/black), motor (orange/grey) and speaker wires (brown) to the decoder.

Connect lights using 1K resistors to the negative function wire on the decoder for LED Lighting. Front/Rear (FL) to Front Light Function (white). Front/Rear (RL) to Rear Light Function (yellow). See light wiring description above. Fan to (AUX 1-green) and Cab light to (AUX 2-violet). All the (+) to the Common Blue wire on the decoder.

 

Final Wiring. All Done

 

 

10. Make sure no wires are protruding and carefully slide the body down on the chassis. Once the body is firmly down on the chassis, refit couplers, body screws and buffers.

 

You now have a completed Powerline 48 Class with DCC Sound and functioning cab lights (AUX2) and fan (AUX 1) that can be switched on/off.

Now for those of you that thought the cab light was to bright and the fan too noisy, with the help of Decoder Pro, simply set (AUX 2 ) to dimmable light, LED mode and adjust the brightness. As for the fan I set (AUX 1) to single strobe, LED mode and brightness down to 4 from 31. That slows the fan right down, hardly any noise and every so often shows the slightest of pauses due to the strobe effect. Experiment with the light setting to see which one you like. I have also set the fan sound effect on the decoder and AUX 1 to (F2) so I can turn on/off both the fan and the sound together.

 

 

 Here is a sound sample:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M20I7DDfaU8

 

Finally, a start...

Well, I finally decided to start my own blog. Just starting to get the hang of it, so this is the beginning of my blog for my model railway layout and for DCC decoder installations. I'm modelling a fictitious location in NSW which I called Coopers Ridge. Somewhere north of Sydney around the time of late 60's to late 80's. By not modelling a prototypical location and era it allows me to be flexible with my modelling but not going overboard to make it too unrealistic.   

The purpose of this blog is to provide information about my DCC (Digital Command Control) decoder installations that I use on my layout. I like to experiment and take some installations to the next level trying to do something that has not been done before or improve on previous installations. so I plan to share some of my basic DCC decoder installations to those including sound. Adding LED lighting and fibre optics to locomotives. Alterations and modifications to improve the running of locomotives under DCC. I have even added a smoke generator to some of my steam models.  

 

Yes, there are some great sites available detailing installations and some have all been done before but I found not all my older models had been covered and site updates covering more recent release locomotives are non existent.

 

Installations will range from old C38/42/422 Lima locomotives, Powerline Models 48 and 81 Classes, Austrains NN, 35, 36, 80 and NR classes, Eureka C38 , Trainorama 42,44 through to the more recent Auscision 73 and 422 Classes and On Track Model 82 Class. And there is one for the kids...lights and sound into a Bachmann Thomas The Tank.

 

I hope to help others who maybe new to DCC and share my ideas with seasoned DCC installers with the hope I too may learn something new. I also want to share some kit bashing ideas I have done to some locos.

Thanks for visiting.